Cooker Switches

A cooker control unit should be fitted by a qualified electrician on a dedicated radial circuit from the consumer unit, sized for the cooker's load. The supply cable feeds the switch terminals, and the outgoing cable usually runs on to a connection unit behind the cooker. Fit the unit on a suitable back box beside the cooker space, within easy reach and clear of the hob.

A cooker control unit is a wall plate that combines a double pole cooker switch with a switched socket. The switch isolates the cooker for safety and maintenance, while the socket can power a small kitchen appliance. Many have neon indicators that show when the switch and socket are on. The range here includes cooker control units in white, chrome and metal clad finishes.

A cooker connection unit is a flush outlet plate, usually fitted low behind the cooker, where the cooker's own cable is connected to the circuit. A clamp holds the outgoing cable, and the unit has no switch, so isolation comes from the cooker switch above the worktop. The range here includes concealed-fitting connection units.

Yes, a fixed electric cooker should have a switch nearby that disconnects it, so it can be isolated for cleaning, repair or in an emergency. A double pole cooker switch breaks the live and neutral together and is usually placed beside the cooker space, within easy reach. Avoid fitting it behind the cooker or directly above the hob.

A cooker switch is a high-current double pole switch, typically rated 45A, that controls the dedicated circuit to an electric cooker or hob. It may be a plain switch or combined with a socket, and a neon indicator often shows when power is on. Choose a finish to match the other kitchen sockets and switches.